Island Peak, more commonly known as Island Peak, stands proudly in the heart of Sagarmatha National Park, nestled in the Himalayas of eastern Nepal. The peak earned its nickname "Island Peak" in 1953 from the British Mount Everest expedition team, as it appeared like an island amidst a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. Despite its official renaming to Imja Tse in 1983, the original name remains a favorite among climbers and adventurers.
Island Peak serves as an extension of the ridge descending from the southern end of Lhotse Shar, making it a remarkable feature of the region's landscape.
A Rich History of Ascents
The southwest summit of Island Peak was first conquered in 1953 by a British expedition team as a training exercise before their successful ascent of Mount Everest. This pioneering group included legendary climbers such as Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie, and seven other skilled Sherpas. The main summit saw its first ascent in 1956, accomplished by Hans-Rudolf Von Gunten and two unnamed Sherpas, part of a Swiss team that also achieved the second ascent of Everest and the first ascent of Lhotse.
The Climbing Route
Island Peak offers a challenging yet rewarding climb, accessible from various starting points. Most climbers begin from the base camp at Pareshaya Gyab, situated at 5,087 meters (16,690 feet), commencing their ascent between 2 and 3 A.M. Alternatively, some opt to ascend to the High Camp at approximately 5,600 meters (18,400 feet) to shorten the summit day. This decision often depends on water availability and the challenges of sleeping at higher altitudes.
The journey from base camp to high camp is essentially a hike, but just above high camp, climbers encounter rocky steps that require moderate scrambling through a broad open gully. At the gully's summit, the glacier travel begins, leading up a steep snow and ice slope. Here, guides may set up fixed ropes for the strenuous ascent of nearly 100 meters (330 feet) to the summit ridge. The final push to the summit is demanding due to the steep climb. While Mount Everest lies a mere ten kilometers to the north, the view from the summit is dominated by the towering wall of Lhotse, rising 2,300 meters (7,500 feet) above.
Navigating the Headwall Crevasse
A significant challenge on the climb is a substantial crevasse along the headwall leading to the summit ridge, which has occasionally forced teams to turn back. In April 2009, the Nepal Mountaineering Association enlisted the Nepal Mountaineering Instructors' Association to install ladders at this crevasse. Since the 2016 fall climbing season, a 5-meter high fixed aluminum ladder has been used to facilitate crossing this obstacle.
Join Us for an Unforgettable Adventure
At Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks, we pride ourselves on offering a professional, friendly, and unforgettable experience. Whether you are an experienced climber or embark on your first Himalayan expedition, our expert guides and support team are dedicated to ensuring your safety and success on this extraordinary journey to the summit of Island Peak. Embark on this adventure with us and create memories that will last a lifetime.
Embark on an exhilarating journey to the summit of Mera Peak, the highest trekking peak in Nepal at 6,476 meters (21,247 feet). This unique expedition offers stunning views of the world's highest peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and Cho Oyu. Our professional and friendly team will ensure a safe, memorable, and enriching experience as you traverse through diverse landscapes and cultural wonders.
Day-by-Day Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu
- Altitude: 1,400m/4,593ftEmbark on a thrilling expedition to Island Peak (6,189 meters/20,305 feet), also known as Imja Tse. This journey offers an ideal blend of adventure and cultural experience, taking you through the heart of the Khumbu region, home to Mount Everest and the warm Sherpa hospitality. Our experienced and friendly team will guide you safely through this incredible journey, ensuring you have an unforgettable experience.
Day-by-Day Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu
- Altitude: 1,400m/4,593ft
- Activities: Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu. Our representative will greet you and transfer you to your hotel. In the evening, enjoy a welcome dinner and an expedition briefing.
- Overnight: Kathmandu
Day 2: Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing and Preparation
- Activities: Explore the rich cultural heritage of Kathmandu Valley, visiting UNESCO World Heritage Sites such as Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath, and Boudhanath. Conduct a final gear check and prepare for the trek.
- Overnight: Kathmandu
Day 3: Fly to Lukla and Trek to Phakding
- Altitude: 2,800m/9,186ft (Lukla), 2,610m/8,563ft (Phakding)
- Flight Duration: 35 minutes
- Trek Duration: 3-4 hours
- Activities: Scenic flight to Lukla. Begin the trek with a descent towards the Dudh Koshi River, passing through picturesque villages to Phakding.
- Overnight: Lodge in Phakding
Day 4: Trek to Namche Bazaar
- Altitude: 3,440m/11,286ft
- Trek Duration: 5-6 hours
- Activities: Trek through pine forests and cross several suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River. Enter the Sagarmatha National Park and continue to Namche Bazaar, the bustling hub of the Khumbu region.
- Overnight: Lodge in Namche Bazaar
Day 5: Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar
- Activities: Acclimatization hike to Everest View Hotel for stunning views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Visit the Sherpa Culture Museum and the Namche Bazaar market.
- Overnight: Lodge in Namche Bazaar
Day 6: Trek to Tengboche
- Altitude: 3,860m/12,664ft
- Trek Duration: 5-6 hours
- Activities: Trek through rhododendron forests with magnificent views of Ama Dablam, Everest, and Lhotse. Visit the famous Tengboche Monastery, the spiritual center of the Khumbu region.
- Overnight: Lodge in Tengboche
Day 7: Trek to Dingboche
- Altitude: 4,410m/14,469ft
- Trek Duration: 5-6 hours
- Activities: Descend through forests and cross the Imja Khola before ascending to the village of Dingboche, surrounded by stunning mountain views.
- Overnight: Lodge in Dingboche
Day 8: Acclimatization Day in Dingboche
- Activities: Acclimatization hike to Nagarjun Hill for panoramic views of Makalu, Lhotse, Chalotse, Tawache, and Ama Dablam. Return to Dingboche for rest and exploration.
- Overnight: Lodge in Dingboche
Day 9: Trek to Chhukung
- Altitude: 4,730m/15,518ft
- Trek Duration: 3-4 hours
- Activities: Trek through the Imja Valley to Chhukung, a small settlement with breathtaking views of Island Peak, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Prepare for the climb ahead.
- Overnight: Lodge in Chhukung
Day 10: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp
- Altitude: 5,200m/17,060ft
- Trek Duration: 3-4 hours
- Activities: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp, passing through glaciers and rugged terrain. Set up camp and conduct pre-climb training on glacier travel and climbing techniques.
- Overnight: Tent at Island Peak Base Camp
Day 11: Summit Island Peak and Return to Base Camp
- Altitude: 6,189m/20,305ft (Island Peak), 5,200m/17,060ft (Base Camp)
- Summit Duration: 10-12 hours
- Activities: Early morning summit push to Island Peak. Enjoy the stunning views from the summit. Descend back to Base Camp.
- Overnight: Tent at Island Peak Base Camp
Day 12: Trek to Pangboche
- Altitude: 3,985m/13,074ft
- Trek Duration: 5-6 hours
- Activities: Retrace your steps back to Chhukung and continue descending to Pangboche, a beautiful village with ancient monasteries.
- Overnight: Lodge in Pangboche
Day 13: Trek to Namche Bazaar
- Altitude: 3,440m/11,286ft
- Trek Duration: 5-6 hours
- Activities: Continue descending through forests and Sherpa villages to Namche Bazaar. Celebrate the successful climb with your team.
- Overnight: Lodge in Namche Bazaar
Day 14: Trek to Lukla
- Altitude: 2,800m/9,186ft
- Trek Duration: 6-7 hours
- Activities: Trek back to Lukla, enjoying the last views of the mountains and the camaraderie of your trekking team.
- Overnight: Lodge in Lukla
Day 15: Fly Back to Kathmandu
- Flight Duration: 35 minutes
- Activities: Early morning flight to Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel. Free day for relaxation, shopping, and exploration.
- Overnight: Kathmandu
Day 16: Departure from Kathmandu
- Activities: Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your departure flight. Farewell and best wishes from the Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks team.
Trip Inclusions:
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu
- Welcome and farewell dinners
- Accommodation in Kathmandu (3 nights) and during the trek (lodge/tent)
- Domestic flights (Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu)
- All meals during the trek
- Experienced and certified climbing guides and porters
- Climbing permits and park fees
- Comprehensive medical kit
- Group climbing equipment
Trip Exclusions:
- International airfare
- Nepal visa fee
- Travel and rescue insurance
- Personal climbing equipment
- Personal expenses (drinks, laundry, phone calls, etc.)
- Tips for guides and porters
Join Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks for an unforgettable Island Peak Climbing adventure. Let us guide you to new heights, where adventure and cultural discovery meet in the breathtaking Himalayas. We look forward to making this journey with you!
- Activities: Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu. Our representative will welcome you and transfer you to your hotel. Enjoy a welcome dinner and briefing about the expedition.
- Overnight: Kathmandu
Day 2: Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing and Preparation
- Activities: Explore the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Kathmandu Valley, including Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, and Patan Durbar Square. Final gear check and preparations.
- Overnight: Kathmandu
Day 3: Fly to Lukla and Trek to Chutanga
- Altitude: 2,800m/9,186ft (Lukla), 3,450m/11,319ft (Chutanga)
- Flight Duration: 35 minutes
- Trek Duration: 4-5 hours
- Activities: Scenic flight to Lukla. Trek through lush forests and picturesque Sherpa villages to Chutanga.
- Overnight: Lodge in Chutanga
Day 4: Acclimatization Day in Chutanga
- Activities: Acclimatization hike to higher elevations and return to Chutanga. Explore the surrounding area and rest.
- Overnight: Lodge in Chutanga
Day 5: Trek to Thuli Kharka via Zatrwa La Pass
- Altitude: 4,600m/15,092ft (Zatrwa La Pass), 4,300m/14,108ft (Thuli Kharka)
- Trek Duration: 6-7 hours
- Activities: Cross the Zatrwa La Pass with stunning views. Descend to Thuli Kharka, passing through beautiful landscapes.
- Overnight: Lodge in Thuli Kharka
Day 6: Trek to Kothe
- Altitude: 3,600m/11,811ft
- Trek Duration: 5-6 hours
- Activities: Trek through dense rhododendron and bamboo forests, following the Hinku River to Kothe.
- Overnight: Lodge in Kothe
Day 7: Trek to Thangnak
- Altitude: 4,350m/14,272ft
- Trek Duration: 4-5 hours
- Activities: Trek along the Hinku Valley with magnificent views of Mera Peak and Kusum Kanguru. Visit the ancient Lungsumgba Gompa en route.
- Overnight: Lodge in Thangnak
Day 8: Acclimatization Day in Thangnak
- Activities: Acclimatization hike to Charpate Himal Glacier. Rest and prepare for the higher altitudes ahead.
- Overnight: Lodge in Thangnak
Day 9: Trek to Khare
- Altitude: 5,045m/16,551ft
- Trek Duration: 4-5 hours
- Activities: Gradual ascent to Khare, the base camp area for Mera Peak. Stunning views of Mera Peak and the surrounding mountains.
- Overnight: Lodge in Khare
Day 10: Training Day in Khare
- Activities: Pre-climb training on glacier travel, rope techniques, and safety procedures. Final preparations for the summit push.
- Overnight: Lodge in Khare
Day 11: Trek to Mera High Camp
- Altitude: 5,800m/19,029ft
- Trek Duration: 5-6 hours
- Activities: Trek to Mera High Camp, enjoying panoramic views of Everest, Makalu, and other peaks. Set up camp and rest.
- Overnight: Tent at Mera High Camp
Day 12: Summit Mera Peak and Return to Khare
- Altitude: 6,476m/21,247ft (Mera Peak), 5,045m/16,551ft (Khare)
- Summit Duration: 8-9 hours
- Activities: Early morning summit push to Mera Peak. Enjoy breathtaking views from the summit. Descend to Khare.
- Overnight: Lodge in Khare
Day 13: Contingency Day
- Activities: Extra day for acclimatization, bad weather, or any other unforeseen events.
- Overnight: Lodge in Khare
Day 14: Trek to Kothe
- Altitude: 3,600m/11,811ft
- Trek Duration: 5-6 hours
- Activities: Descend back to Kothe, retracing your steps through the beautiful Hinku Valley.
- Overnight: Lodge in Kothe
Day 15: Trek to Thuli Kharka
- Altitude: 4,300m/14,108ft
- Trek Duration: 5-6 hours
- Activities: Trek back to Thuli Kharka, enjoying the scenic landscapes and serene environment.
- Overnight: Lodge in Thuli Kharka
Day 16: Trek to Lukla via Zatrwa La Pass
- Altitude: 2,800m/9,186ft (Lukla)
- Trek Duration: 6-7 hours
- Activities: Cross the Zatrwa La Pass again and descend to Lukla. Celebrate the successful climb with your team.
- Overnight: Lodge in Lukla
Day 17: Fly Back to Kathmandu
- Flight Duration: 35 minutes
- Activities: Early morning flight to Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel. Free day for relaxation, shopping, and exploration.
- Overnight: Kathmandu
Day 18: Departure from Kathmandu
- Activities: Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your departure flight. Farewell and best wishes from the Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks team.
Trip Inclusions:
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu
- Welcome and farewell dinners
- Accommodation in Kathmandu (3 nights) and during the trek (lodge/tent)
- Domestic flights (Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu)
- All meals during the trek
- Experienced and certified climbing guides and porters
- Climbing permits and park fees
- Comprehensive medical kit
- Group climbing equipment
Trip Exclusions:
- International airfare
- Nepal visa fee
- Travel and rescue insurance
- Personal climbing equipment
- Personal expenses (drinks, laundry, phone calls, etc.)
- Tips for guides and porters
Join Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks for an unforgettable Mera Peak Climbing experience, where adventure meets cultural immersion and natural splendor. We look forward to guiding you to the summit!