went on two road trips in December and January.
I drove to Karauli, Rampura, Khajuraho, and Agra in December, and there's no better way to see India.
I spent two nights at Bhanwar Vilas Palace, in Karauli, hosted by the current Maharaja and his family.
The young Prince Vivasvatpal and his equally charming wife Anshika were my hosts and pampered me. They were the first among the many next-generation Royals I would meet over the next six weeks.
Karauli is within driving distance (330 Km) from Delhi, and Ranthambore National Park lies a further 110 Kms SW. I took the Expressway to Agra and then drove to Dholpur before turning west to Karauli.
Bhanwar Vilas Palace
Their nine spacious suites and three more on the first floor above the old kitchen are the best and spacious accommodations you'll find in a compact Palace.
The Prince walked me through his estate. They have a large farm behind the Palace where they cultivate various vegetables, mustard, pulses, and wheat.
The Royal Garage is a collection of vintage cars that are impeccably maintained, and the Desoto diplomat has undoubtedly earned its pride of place as it stands apart.
Desoto
We then moved to their stud farm, where they rear a special breed of Marwari horses called the Palominos. These Golden horses are indeed unique.
Marwari Palomino
Walking is the best way to discover the old Karauli town, whose narrow, winding streets buzz with incredible energy. The Prince and his wife Anshika accompanied me to the City Palace, whose sheer majesty and size stunned me.
City Palace
It is India's oldest Palace and perhaps the biggest. Over the decades, it fell into a state of disrepair. But Vivaswat, our artist Prince has committed himself to restore the mammoth edifice, and he's doing a remarkable job.
Durbar Hall
So. What's there to do in Karauli.? The bazaar, the Palace (only private visits), the Madan Mohanji temple dedicated to Lord Krishna, the Palace grounds, a visit to the KailaDevi sanctuary and temple. Plenty of crumbly old forts, including Utgir closer to Ramathra and another place close to the Chambal.
There's plenty of nature walks, lakes, where you can have picnics or high tea and watch the Sunset.
It is also a birders haven. There must be over three hundred species. But what I am keen on taking that narrow-gauge train that comes from Dholpur to a station close to Karauli.
Gwalior, Dholpur, Ramathra, Ranthambore, Jaipur & Agra are all within striking distance.
Ideally, if you're driving from Delhi, make a quick stop in Agra, get Taj Mahal out of the way, and head for Karauli via Dholpur. I recommend a minimum of three nights.
The Karauli Royal family is the soul of Bhanwar Vilas Palace, and the young Prince and Princess are the perfect hosts, not to forget their parents.
End of Part I
Part II Karauli, Bateshwara, Bhind, Rampura.
I drove into the rising sun on my way to Rampura. It was a smooth drive until Morena; we made slow progress in reaching the Bateshwar temple Complex.
Set in a natural bowl within a densely forested ravine of the Chambal river valley, this remote 25-acre site is, without doubt, one of the most impressive archaeological sites in India.
A local ruler built this temple complex between the 8th and 10th centuries AD after the jungle swallowed a brief flourish and perhaps crushed in an earthquake.
Bateshwar
The ruins were re-discovered in the 19th century by a British archaeologist and remained that way throughout the twentieth and provided sanctuary to the local bandits until an enthusiastic archaeologist negotiated a peaceful eviction and began putting this jigsaw puzzle back together.
He managed to re-assemble eighty of the two hundred odd temples before the funds ran out.
But even with only 80 temples, the Bateshwara temples are an incredible sight. The intricate carvings, the symbolism and their isolated location, make it a must-visit.
Temple
Bateshwar is 90 minutes north of Gwalior. There's a secondary road which is best taken. Usha Kiron Palace can arrange packed lunch, entry is free, and there are clean toilets.
Farther afield lay the Padhavali temple. Garhi Padhavali is a 10th century Shiva temple that holds a bit of a surprise as you approach this monument.
The path from the road takes you towards what appears to be a small compact fort, with a flight of steps flanked by two posing lions enticing you into the interior.
Garhi Padhavli
built by the Jat rulers of Gohad, its absolute splendour lies up that flight of steps between the two lions. As you enter the temple, you get a sneak preview of what is about to hit you.
The pillars, beams, ceiling and architraves are entirely covered with iconography.
Here's a description.
North Panel (south-facing) – Lord Brahama, Shiva and Vishnu in old age, with a lower section depicting celebration at Nandgaon of the birth of Lord Krishna.
Garhi Padhavli.
East Panel (west-facing) – Chamunda, with a lower section depicting Lord Ram and his army of Vanaras performing a puja by a Shiva lingam before the war with Ravana.
South Panel (north-facing) – Lord Shiva with Parvati and Nandi, lower section depicting war scene of Mahabharata killing Abhimanyu.
West Panel (east-facing) – Lord Surya, a lower section is depicting Lords Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu.
64 yogini temple
Known as the Chausath Yogini temple, the Ekattarso Mahadeva Mandir is located in the small quiet village of Mitaoli.
It was built by King Devapala of the Kachchhapaghata dynasty sometime in the 11th century. Its purpose was to provide education in astrology and mathematics, primarily based on the sun's transit.
Subsidiary shrine
The monument has commanding views across the surrounding plains, and a short hike will take you to the summit. In addition to the main temple is a subsidiary shrine, a little unusual in being on a raised platform with nine steps leading up to the entrance.
Bateshwar, Padhavli, and Mitaoli can be quickly done in a day if you set out early. Begin with Mitaoli, then Padhavli, and end at the Bateshwar temple complex. All ex Gwalior or on the way from Dholpur. You can also take the train from Agra to Morena. Check timings.
We were on our way to Rampura, which lies not far away from the confluence of the Chambal, Yamuna, Sindh, Pahuj and Kuwari rivers. That place is called panchnada. It is a fertile region having been ploughed for over 2500 years and nourished by the waters of these rivers, which make their way through the muddy ravines, canyons, and gorges travelling further East as the Yamuna before draining into the Ganges as Allahabad. It's a spectacular setting and the perfect cycling terrain.
Pahuj river.
We were first introduced to Rampura by Elisabeth and Ludivine of La Route des Indes. I didn't notice it until last September when I drove with Ram Pratap along what must be the longest cycling track that goes all the way from Agra up to quila Pratap.
You could do a whole cycling trip from Gwalior to Rampura and then down to Agra. The lesser-known India.
My hosts were Keshu (Keshvendra Singh) and Padmini, his wife. Their young son Avi welcomed me at the entrance to this crumbly old fort.
I spent the most entertaining evening of the entire trip. Keshu's thrilling stories from his encounter with the local (councilwoman)to the bandit leader who urged him to supply ordnance made up for a great evening warmed up with a fire and generously dosed with large pegs of Scotch. Padmini's kitchen was sumptuous. We ate dinner, and I was off to bed.
Rampura
Fort Rampura has four rooms. Atiya, Manik Chowk, Kamal Burj & Daftar. Their sizes vary.
Fort Rampura
Nestled deep in the Chambal ravines of Bundelkhand stands the more than 600-year old Fort Rampura. After being with the family for fourteen generations, Raja Samar Singh and his family now offer Fort Rampura as a unique homestay destination for guests who wish to experience the true-blue feudal and country life of the erstwhile nobility of Bundelkhand.
A fourth of the fort has succumbed to erosion. The other make up the living quarters of the present owner who plans to open the fort to visitors who want to experience a few days of rustic feudal living surrounded by the silence of the ravines and forest.
A drive through the forest, visiting the ravines which were once the refuge of