Frustrated by the lockdown and unable to travel overseas, the Indian Traveler has invaded Hotels that were once the exclusive preserve of the foreign visitor. The hotels, for their part, are struggling as they get used to their whims and fancies and feeling of being privileged and entitled.
To the trained eye, the decline in service standards across Hotels was palpable.
10 Aug. I began with Kothi Ummed Nagar. a farmhouse on the outskirts of Jodhpur. Set in 50 acres of agricultural land, this 4 bedroom home provides a window to the rural countryside of India while offering all the luxuries that you're likely to find in a 5 star Palace without the trappings. The owners are present, and their attention to your needs makes all the difference.
I would highly recommend Kothi Ummed Nagar, even if it means driving an extra 45 minutes out of the city.
I then drove back to Jodhpur and entered my favourite Palace, the Umaid Bhawan. It hasn't lost any of its charms, but what makes this Palace its prestige are the overseas visitors, who enjoy its accommodations and restaurants and pool in a dignified manner.
While we wait for them, this Palace has to do with the Indian guest and the odd expat who might turn up. But the Palace is accustomed to the demanding Indian traveller. It has hosted many prestigious weddings in its Halls and lawns, with the who's who of India attending one of these mega-events.
Without a doubt, it's still the best Palace to stay in all of India, with the Jodhpur fort providing the perfect backdrop.
I searched in vain for my hotel, gave up and stayed at Ratan Vilas Palace, where we have been sending guests for some years now. Brij Raj, the owner, received me and showed me The last to my room.
The Hotel has 18 rooms and the ones facing the large swimming pool are the best. It's a laid back version of what the Ajit Bhawan must have been in the early eighties. A well maintained squeaky clean property, and for the price, it's a steal.
My room was comfortable. The bathroom was large, with adequate amenities. I had to switch off the air-conditioning, it was freezing. I ordered room service and was served fresh home-cooked food.
11 Aug. I visited Mandore Gardens, the former capital of Marwar, from the 6th century until 1459 when it moved to Jodhpur. The original fort has disappeared from Mandore, and only the cenotaphs of Maharajas and Maharanis remain as a reminder of this prestigious past. I enjoyed my walk looking at the various temple-like structures, this place is serene, and it comes alive when locals, pilgrims and traders all come together. Definitely worth a visit, especially now since the Meherangarh Museum Trust is involved in restoration and upkeep.
I reached ahead of time for breakfast at the Raas. If I were to choose the top ten breakfast spots, Raas would be No-1, maybe No-2. Nikhil(endra) made it in time and had a hearty breakfast after initially refusing to eat.
How do you convert an old building into a trendy design hotel while conserving its charm? That’s what Raas Jodhpur is all about. Four old residences of a wealthy merchant merge beautifully with the three modern buildings that form the bulk of the accommodations at this fine boutique hotel in the heart of the old town. There’s no better place to stay in Jodhpur.
The hotel was empty; it's the location this time proving to be a disadvantage. In comparison, the other two properties, namely Chattrasagar and Devigarh, were running a full house for over ten days. While none of the hoteliers is happy with the present bunch of customers, they pay, and they pay well. And it's all cash and carry.
My next halt was Rohet, where I met the lovely Siddarth Singh, who is ageing like a good wine. In tow was his son Avijit. The road to Rohet is a four-lane highway, and on a good day, you could reach there in under 45 minutes.
I was saddened by all the modern structures which have come all over and around Rohet; this was once such a charming one-horse town.
But RohetGarh hasn't lost any of its. It's still a special place, Meenu and I have fond memories of Rohet, as do the Thakurs of Rohet. It was good to see the next-gen taking over the reins, but the question is, what's the future of such places? Like all others' they too are now at the mercy of the Indian Traveller. And right now, it's the nouveau riche of Jodhpur who is going farther afield and discovering Rajput heritage.
12 Aug. On the road again, I drove South East to Jawai to meet my friend Parambir, who co-owns Rawla Bisalpur, a four-bedroom crumbly old Fortress cum haveli which the brothers have aesthetically restored. If you want to see the Leopards and Shepherds and aren't hung up on Luxury, this is the only place to stay in Jawai.
Barely do you step out of the fort, and you're into the thick of things. They were kind enough to take me on a drive to Rabari land, and we had tea and snacks on one of those great rocks that make up the Jawai Leopard conservatory.
They were kind enough to drive me a further 30 Km South West to BERA, which is the SSW part of the Leopard territory and not to be confused with Jawai. NNW Jawai, SSW Bera is literally separated by the Jawai Bandh and Rabari territory all around.
I met Mohan and our guide Pramod who had been reconnoitring the area for new cycling routes.
Thankfully my Vodka bottle came in handy, for I was about to be served a very ordinary dinner and sleep on a thin mattress. And I'll leave it at that.
Shatrunjay is an unremitting Wildlifer, and that is his only focus. And if that's your calling? Then you'll overlook everything that is not right with BERA SAFARI lodge, which is pretty much everything.
But for his generosity, a wealth of knowledge and company, and Mohan's presence, I would have left the place without any hesitation.
Bera Safari Lodge is truly in the wilderness; even if there's a railway track nearby and the highway isn't far off either, it's ideal for those whose sole mission is wildlife and not just limited to the Leopards. And Shatrunjay will definitely give you a bang for your buck.
13 Aug. So off we went the next day in search of new cycling routes, it was exciting, fun-filled travelling through those secondary roads along and above the Aravalis we met some great strangers, who allowed us to take pictures, not one of them was wearing a mask.
We kept our distance and chugged along the hillside road until it merged with a mega highway. That's the beauty of these hills. Turn off the highway, and you're transported back in time.
Pramod lives in these interiors, and he has a lovely home with a farm patch where they grow a variety of things. His quaint village is well worth a walking visit. It's next door to the mighty Kumbalgarh Fort, and the Ranakpur Jaïn temples are an hour away. I am particularly fond of this area; it's still rural, charming, and has many wonderful people with a great history.
In 1887 four Armenian brothers, Martin, Tigran, Aviet and Arshak Sarkies, opened a hotel in Singapore and named it after Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the Englishman who established colonial Singapore.
Over the next 136 years, Raffles Hotels & Resorts grew principally in the nineties before the Accor group acquired it in 2016 and brought the brand to India.
The Raffles Udaipur is an expansive property set on a private island outside the city limits, surrounded by the waters of the Udai Sagar Lake.
It's been under construction for over a decade, giving it the patina of a hotel that's been around for some time. Easy on the eyes and heavenly on the senses, let the surroundings bang an epiphany out of you if needed. A journalist waxed eloquent.
Mohan and I took an exhaustive 2-hour site inspection. Blinded by the ostentatiousness, I left with mixed feelings. The weather may have played its part. I think Conde Nast India, the description comes as close to reality as it can. The architects ' inspiration was a storied mood board of a love story between India and the West. The result: a grand, English country estate meets Rajasthan’s royal heritage with additional elements of Islamic architecture.,
101 rooms and suites, two bars, three functional eateries, one speciality restaurant opening soon, A Spa, and a large meeting hall set in 21 acres @rafflesudaipur is sure to give the competition a run for their money.
We weaved our way through the traffic chocked city, drove up at the Lake Palace boat jetty, and met Shakti and Mahipal Singh. A short boat transfer brought us to the Lake Palace, where we were booked for the night.
The Lake Palace is as its founder had imagined it. A summer Palace in the middle of a Lake. It has hosted Royalties for two hundred and fifty years, and in the last five decades, it has seen hordes of celebrities, wannabes and other’s embark and disembark at its jetty.
Besides accommodating us in two of the best suites, the General Manager, Mohanchandran, hosted us for drinks and dinner on the Mewar terrace overlooking the city Palace. It's not hard to imagine why the Lake Palace is probably the world’s most romantic destination hotel.
Royalty is a clichéd word, but you‘ll be treated here like one, as you swing back and forth between the grandeur of your lodgings and the decadence of the AmritSagar Bar where sipping the most innovative Martini‘s is de rigeur.
And so we said goodbye to our host and retired to our Regal suites for the night.
14 Aug. The start of a long day. I reached Dabok in time for my flight to Jaipur. The Udaipur airport is fully modernised with a pair of aerobridges and half a dozen bays. After completing a contactless check-in, I went past security and boarded the flight. An hour later, I was in Jaipur. Flying within India is a breeze these days.
Bhupi received me, and we headed South by South East towards Fort Barwara, a fourteenth-century medieval fort within whose walls is housed the modern Six Senses Spa & Resort. The old and the new structures have blended in perfectly, and the aesthetics are pleasing; there’s no sensory overlord as one experienced at the Raffles.
Sangay Choegyal, the young General Manager and our friend Rajat Gera warmly received me and walked me through the property. Be it landscaping, the interiors, the public and private areas; the resort provides endless spaces for you to move around and feel at home.
Construction crews worked at an accelerated pace to complete the project before the scheduled opening on 14 October. 2021.
Sustainability is an important Mission Pillar for the six senses, in their own words.
Six Senses Sustainability
Sustainable is not something that we do; it is who we are
For us, being environmentally friendly and socially responsible can be successfully wedded to uncompromisingly gorgeous hideaways. Empty of waste, toxins and plastic, and full of spirituality, celebration and joy.
Their other mission Pillars are Rewilding the forest east of the property and reviving Barwara Lake.
With Sangay leading the charge, Six Senses Fort Barwara’s success is guaranteed. He has impeccable credentials. In the words of his previous employer Shinta Mani Wild in Siam Reap, Cambodia.
Sangjay brings a decade of solid experience in luxury, boutique and remote properties to his new role, which makes him the perfect choice to be the custodian and manager of this unique property. His previous experience, Amankora Punakha in Bhutan and Gal Oya Lodge in Sri Lanka.
6 Senses is a sanctuary of well being. Each of its 48 suites offers different views. Withtake a gigantic Spa, three dining outlets, and destination dining experiences, this maiden venture of Six Senses is sure to redefine Indian hospitality standards.
It took me two and a half hours to get to the property. The last forty kilometres were on secondary roads through beautiful countryside.
Ranthambore Tiger reserve 30 Km to the East, and while Tiger Safari isn’t the focus, you can book an excursion. My personal favourite would be going to Bundi, which is 120 km South. What an excursion would that be.
And then there’s Jaipur, of course, although I would love to take a train from Barwara station to the Pink City.
After a quick lunch, I drove back to Jaipur, where I spent the night at RAAS RajMahal Palace, which SùjanLuxury managed until last year.
Pouring vintage Wine into a new bottle doesn’t make it “new” while this might run contrary to the story of RAAS Jodhpur, this adage might hold true for the RajMahal. Its addition to the portfolio inspired me to put together a set of programs called SUITE SURRENDER that features all the RAAS properties.
The new GM comes with a rich food & beverage background, having worked in New York, and his stint at the Indian Accent is sure to take the dining experience at RajMahal to new heights.
The Rajmahal Palace was built in 1729 and was once the home of Maharaja Sawai Man ‘Jai’ Singh and Maharani Gayatri Devi. The Maharani describes the Palace in her memoir, A Princess Remembers, as a place that had “charm and character and a pleasantly informal atmosphere”.
I can vouch for the informal atmosphere.